This is a snapshot of Sapa, in the northern mountains of Vietnam, based on my September 2024 travels there. I was unwell at the time, but it was still an amazing and unique experience.
After wandering through the small town centre we headed toward the hills and fields. Along the way we were approached by vibrant local women, young and old, dressed in a distinct style that I’d never encountered before. Their ears are adorned with lots of large silver hoops, they have hats and clothes in bright indigo, green and orange shades, they carry large back packs and have a warmth and cheekiness to them. We’d later find out they are part of the Mong people.
At first we were determined to do our own thing, so we we said hi but kept on our way. However, the further we ventured into the open hillsides, with slippery mud, me feeling unwell, barbed wire around, roaming dogs barking and no idea where we were headed…I became increasingly convinced we needed help!
In the distance we saw a group of tourists being guided by serval of the Mong women, and we flagged them down for help. Kindly, two of the women departed that group to guide us. They literally held our hand as they guided us through the lush country side. Along the way they showed us Indigo farms, talked about their rice fields and the local villages including their own. They even taught us some words in their language.
Their English seemed flawless, but when I asked them if they had a God they had no idea what I was talking about. This made me think their English is likely limited to the kinds of conversations tourists usually want to engage in, so sadly we couldn’t talk more deeply to understand their culture.
If you want to walk for hours then they can take you all the way to the Mong Village and bring you back on a motorcycle. But as I wasn’t feeling well and the weather had been stormy, we opted for a shorter walk. The women led us back up to the road and pointed us in the direction to walk back home. In exchange for their guide service you purchase some handmade items from them. We got a beautiful indigo dyed fabric runner, brass ring and a pair of their signature silver hoop earrings. They kindly also put hand woven bracelets on us to remember them by. It’s difficult to know what is the appropriate amount to pay, but hopefully we left them with a good amount to show we appreciated their help and the great experience.
Before trekking here, a note for those with small kids, or any mobility concerns, or even just those who didn’t bring the right footwear: some of the terrain was very muddy, slippery and steep. There is wild animals, barbed wire and virtually no discernible path or safety measures. It’s fun, but a challenge, and certainly worth going with a local guide.
We arrived before the sun had even risen and found the lobby door open and the concierge sleeping on the couch. He very kindly jumped up and gave us early access to our room. The rooms are two levels, with a balcony, high ceilings and a beautiful bathtub. Virtually everything is made of wood, so it has all the charm of a mountain town that you’d hope for. Everything is clean, well-designed, all the amenities you can need are there and the walls are adorned with local art.
They do have a handy laundry service, but a word of warning, we put in all our washing [including a new pair of black pants I’d bought locally] and I guess they didn’t separate out the colours, so we had some white shirts come out ruined. But the stay was so lovely we didn’t mind.
Breakfast at the Eco Lodge is a tranquil buffet [in a western hotel those two words would never go together] with views over the town square. The coffee and food are fresh and delicious with plenty of variety.
When we set off for our next destination, the lovely staff sent us away with a packed lunch.
This cute place is also incredibly cheap. The hot soup was just what I needed after a long trek. The spiced cocktail was delicious and you can find a quiet booth to take a rest. We went in the afternoon and basically had the place to ourselves, but it’s open day and night.
It’s a bit of a surreal experience going here as a westerner, with staff dressed in Viet Cong uniforms and all the decor around matching. It is a franchise where they serve herbal teas, coffees and a range of frappes, flavoured drinks and sweets.
At night all the signs, church and the archways lights up. There are lots of young people listening to music and walking with friends. This little town of Sapa transforms from feeling like a sleepy village, into something more reminiscent of Hanoi, but with its own charm.
